May 1 Art Minute: Sterlé Jewelers, Flower Brooch

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Sterlé Jewelers (France, Paris), Flower Brooch. Gold, diamonds, platinum, and mother-of-pearl, 1964. L. 4 9/16 inches; W. 3 7/8 inches. Purchased with funds given by Rita Barbour Kern and funds given by the family and friends of Phyllis Fox Driggs, 1999.3. Gallery 34

Designed to be worn high on the shoulder, this brooch has a strong sense of naturalism, capturing the feeling of a living plant. Some of the mother-of-pearl petals are even shaped to look as if they have been broken. The center of individual gold chain stamens would have moved as the wearer walked, sometimes revealing the small diamonds at the top of the rivets holding the petals. The turning stem is set with round diamonds on its front and rectangular baguette diamonds on its reverse.


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