Shoowa Group
Kuba Peoples, Democratic Republic of Congo

Perhaps the most singular trademark of Kuba artistic output in the last century is textiles made from raffia palm fiber, embroidered and appliquéd with complex geometric patterns. Although this skirt was probably worn by a royal woman, such as the king’s wife, daughter, or niece, Kuba textiles have functions and uses that go far beyond Western senses of clothing. These fabrics were considered to be a form of wealth and were used as tribute, bride wealth, debt payment, and compensation in legal settlements. They also had intellectual and social significance beyond their strictly monetary value.

The patterns on Kuba textiles appear to be purely geometric, abstract motifs, but they are in fact representational and have specific names such as “tortoise shell,” “interlace,” and “feather,” whose meanings are known only to the women who sew them.

Raffia cloth with appliqué designs, mid-20th century
Purchased with funds from the Libbey Endowment, Gift of Edward Drummond Libbey, 1977.73